• Prepare a large hole.
Most tree roots grow within the top 12" of soil, not straight down. Dig your hole as deep as the tree's root ball and about 6' wide.

• Prepare the soil.
Use good, rich, native topsoil. To test for clay and sand content, squeeze a handful of soil and see if it gently falls apart. If the soil stays in a well-defined ball, it has too much clay and may drown the tree because of inadequate drainage. If it loses all of its shape, the soil may have too much sand and will not retain enough water to nourish the tree. Amend the soil with compost or other organic matter.

• Place the tree.
Lift it gently by the root ball, never by the trunk. Plant it at the same depth it was planted in the nursery; look for the mark between the trunk and the root ball. If you plant too deeply, you may cut off oxygen for the new roots, but if you plant too shallow the roots can dry out.

• Fill the hole.
If your root ball is wrapped in burlap, cut the string and slash the burlap in a few places. As you fill the hole with soil, avoid air pockets by firming the soil with your hands and settling it with water. Don't stomp the soil with your feet.

• Mulch around the base
Shredded bark, well-rotted leaf litter, or compost provides a protective layer that conserves moisture and protects the tree from heat and cold. Mulch also reduces the amount of weeds, which rob the tree of vital nourishment and water. Place a 3" layer of mulch on top of the soil, but don't heap it against the tree trunk.

• Water regularly.
Water your tree twice a week even in the winter for the first year after planting — more often during drought. Saturate the soil.

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